jason

[quote=JCDerrick;57413]A lot of the Fluorescent lighting I've seen causes plants to stretch. My halides don't cause any reaching/stretching for the light and they lights are 4-6' above the plants - a lot of them. I still think Halides, while expensive, are the best way to keep plants alive and happy indoors. I would only use Fluorescent if I had another light source to supplement the fixture.

In layman's terms, and correct me if I'm wrong:
The K value is how close the light is to natural sunlight. I think 6000K is close to normal sunlight (judging by the chart on the previous page). So it's like the quality of the light.

I think the Wattage and PAR sort of go hand in hand. Wattage is like the "power" of the light. The output of the light is always a good deal less than what it actually uses to run the light.

The PAR value is the "fuel" of the light; at least in terms of being a plant. Like food.


The higher the CRI is of the bulb the closer it is to the suns natural spectrum Cri stands for color rendering index with 100 percent being the sun and the K stands for kevin ,,like a bulb that says 2100 wich would be like you normal srew in incandescent bulbs that you put in your home fixtures the higher the number in kelvin the more blue spectrum a bulb emmits and the suns kelvin rating in summer is in the 5500-6400 kelvin depending on air polution cloudy day..... certain things in the air will filter out but not completley degrees of kelvin their for changing the kelvin out put of the sun.. and what are eyes perceive as bright enough light for plants,,plants see alot different than we do,,so for instants your eyes see that the light in your house is bright enough for you plants ,when infact your plants are seeing it as being in heavy shade,,lights and lighting are sometimes very confusing..