anthony340

The weather is becoming much colder and not much sunlight. So, I'm continuing to grow my Dwarf Cavendish inside the home. What I need to know is what type of inside lighting should I use. Any other suggestions for winter growing would be appreciated.

Thank you

chong

Best one to use is the T5 Fluorescent lighting for High Bay or HO applications. The light output of these lamps stays relatively flat throughout 95% of its life. They have the same output as HIDs lamps, but HIDs' output tapers down after 50% of it life. T5 Fluorescent lamps are available in "Sunlight", as well as, the usual warm and cool white.

chong

Here is a link to an article, from Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) magazine, on T5 Fluorescent lighting and how they compare with other types of lighting, with a graph showing the efficacies of various lamp types over their lifetimes.

The T5 Fluorescent Lamp: Coming on Strong

chong

Here are other links showing a comparison of lighting outputs between T5HO and Metal Halides, with some pricing for 2-lamp and 4-lamp fixtures, with the lamps included. Need to consider the $300 minimum purchase and the shipping costs from PA. So, check with your local lighting stores for pricing and compare.

The T5 Fluorescent Lamp: Coming on Strong

http://www.seattle.gov/light/conserv...s/cv4_t5hO.pdf

edd82

Try an "Envirolite". They come in versions from 125 watt to 200 watt bulbs and I think that you can get 400w system with 2 bulbs housed under one shade. They're much cheaper than HID's but they don't give quite as much light (lumens).

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D_&_T

Here is place I have ordered from before!

e-conolight Official Home Page

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JCDerrick

I use two 1000W MH systems that I purchased last year - but the above makes me curious. Would I benefit from possibly switching out my MH system in a few years to these new lights, or can they compete with the 1000W systems? I noticed they typically only compare these new lights to the 400W halides.

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Malama 'Aina



Normal Jan. Low: 34°F, Normal Jul High: 92°F
Coldest: 16-20°F, Warmest: 98-103°F
Annual Precip: 48 inches

D_&_T

What type of 1000W MH bulb? As wattage is not all you look at in bulbs.

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JCDerrick

7000K veg growth bulb.

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Malama 'Aina



Normal Jan. Low: 34°F, Normal Jul High: 92°F
Coldest: 16-20°F, Warmest: 98-103°F
Annual Precip: 48 inches

D_&_T

ok, we have been using mostly fluorescent bulbs compact and linear.

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JCDerrick

Here's another comparison image I found interesting last year. I think for one 1000W bulb I'd need 25 of the T5HO; or in my case 50 since I run two 1000W systems.



I get about 8x8 grow area per light, with 10x10 supplemental - give or take with overlap. So I have about a 16x8 solid grow area.

And if the below chart is correct, I could probably just purchase 5000-6000 bulbs in the future.


I'll admit some of the K value stuff, etc is over my head at this point still.

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Malama 'Aina



Normal Jan. Low: 34°F, Normal Jul High: 92°F
Coldest: 16-20°F, Warmest: 98-103°F
Annual Precip: 48 inches

JCDerrick

Here's an example of where I could use some translation to common-speak. Like the PAR ratings? And I'm still fuzzy on the "initial lumens" thing too. Or maybe I've just forgotten since doing all my homework last year - can anyone clarify that?

These are the bulbs I use:
Buy 1000W SolarMax 7200K Metal Halide Lamps Here!

Edit: I should have searched more on that same site. Here's an FAQ that explains a lot of the terminology.
PAR Watts, Spectral Distribution & Kelvin Temp.

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Malama 'Aina



Normal Jan. Low: 34°F, Normal Jul High: 92°F
Coldest: 16-20°F, Warmest: 98-103°F
Annual Precip: 48 inches

D_&_T

If I understand right "initial lumens" is the first use or beginning life of bulb, the other is what it puts out over the avg. life of bulb(mean). This is why they adjust the bulbs on tanning beds and warn (sunburn)when changing bulbs if they just turn it on and never adjust, just let bulbs run out their life! Some bulbs depending on ballast have a steady burn or taper off in lumens the more they are used(bulb life).


please educate me if wrong!!

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Patty in Wisc

Does this mean I need xtra lighting on my tree? One will be in a cool sunroom (ave 50-55F) & getting some sunlight, & the other will be in 68F room with some sun from south facing window. The one in sunroom will be semi dormant because of coolness so won't need a lot of sun.
I'm worried now about the one in room @ 68*. It will see only 3-4 hours of sun each day. More lighting? Thanks.

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Patty




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Patty in Wisc has sadly passed away 9/05/11. We will miss you Patty.

damaclese

i ues the wide spectrum T5 florecents there vary cheap only 56wats iv been uesing them for about a year now and most of my plants have done spectaculerly under them as a mater of fact if had to move them up a bit as they were to intens for some of my more shade lovong plants my Ae Ae has never been outside and has only been grown under theas lights its one of my fastes growing Bananas. you can get realy nuts with lighting but realy for the bucks the plane old T5 flroecent grow lights are the best value in my opinan and there the most ecanomical to run and in thes times of high energy cost one has to be practical most plants are vary adaptibal any way they dont know the difrince betwen t5 and HID or what ever you are uesing however they do know the difrince betwen hot light and cold light and most dont like the hot lights so agen T5 wich are vary cool you can tuch them with you hand and not get burnt

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JCDerrick

Halides definitely are expensive, I can't argue there. They do the job as advertised, but their upfront cost and power costs are incredible. To give anyone considering them an idea of what you're investment would be. The 1000W lights run close to $100 (for a good bulb); smaller Watt systems are cheaper for the blubs usually. The ballast is what you'll pay the big bucks for. I usually try and find an all-in-one kit where you get the light, hood, ballast, etc in a single package for a good price. Both of mine were right at $400 each; and that was before ever plugging them in. When looking at a hood, get one with a glass shield. MH bulbs are apparently notorious for exploding and you don't want that to be an issue if you're under it - obviously. And supposdely MH bulbs are also only good for about a year of continuous use. After that they loose some of their output (though it's not obvious to the naked eye) and the power costs stays the same for only a portion of the same quality light you had originally. Now whether that is true or just a marketing scheme to sell bulbs, no idea - I guess I'll be deciding that myself next year.

Total cost to run them a month at $0.10 per kilowatt hour (for about 14 hours) is right around $43 a month, per light. So $86 per month total.

But they do the job and it gives me a large growing area with a lot of light for some high light plants (palms, BOP, Travelers Palm, etc).

If I had to do it all over again I'd just buy a house with more windows, LOL

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Malama 'Aina



Normal Jan. Low: 34°F, Normal Jul High: 92°F
Coldest: 16-20°F, Warmest: 98-103°F
Annual Precip: 48 inches

D_&_T

Here is a PDF I found thought some might like to read, it is from Philips! Might take little time to load depending on your connection speed!!

Attached Images

philips lighting chart.pdf (4.76 MB, 22 views)

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jason

Metal halide are far more superior than any other light,They do how ever cost a little bit more on your electric bill but not as much as you would think,,I personally use 2-400 watt metal halide and 4-100 watt compact fluorecents in my garage to winter my plants over,,my electric bill goes up about $40 in the winter months to run these light plus 2- box fans to reinsure good air circulation,,Lights are ran about 10-12 hours a day depending apon when I turn them off and on,,,still need to get a timer for the lights,so it is not such a pain to turn the lights all on,,oh,,and the box fans run 24/7 ,and the plants get misted every other day to keep the humidity up and helps a little bit with the whole spider mite thing.... I pre-spray everything with Avid ,before it goes in the garage for the winter.Avid is a spray just for spider mites ,,works very very well,but is kinda ,,well VERY exspensive!!!

damaclese

every one has such good points thanks for all the info id have to gues on the cost of the t5 i never realy notest much increas as when i started uesing them the temps started going up outside is the Ac was running more and more but id have to say looking at the KWH ratings im paying mabey 5$ a month more on my bill thats just a gues and power here is farly cheep conpaird to the rest of the contry (arnt casinos grand they pay for every thing)

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jeffreyp

Years ago when I was living in Connecticut I grew banana plants in the basement. The ceiling was high and I hung normal fluorescent shop lights over the containers of banana plants. Over the course of the winter they grew just fine, and got to a large size by spring. I gave them maybe 12-14 hours of light and I think the biggest problem I encountered was spider mites. I found a very effective treatment - it was concern brand insecticidal soap spray. Just about every other brand of spray I tried was inneffective.



Jeff