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Main Banana Discussion This is where we discuss our banana collections; tips on growing bananas, tips on harvesting bananas, sharing our banana photos and stories. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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![]() Last fall I did 2 things to prevent the pup damp off that happened last season.
Pegged the main mama and shut off all irrigation to that area. The pegs shut off the growth of the mama which died off later when the short frost hit us. Theory being energy transfers to the suckers. Six pups surfaced and 2 are tall right now. Last seasons follow up is still hanging in there - right side of pic. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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![]() I think "resources" would be a better description than "energy".
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#3 (permalink) |
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![]() I do not fully understand pegging, is this common practice to force growth to the pups?
Does it cause a slow death to the main stem or are you just starving it for the benefit of the pups without the true shock of just cutting it off. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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![]() Did the main plant fruit or was this done because you thought it wouldn't make it through the winter? Also why peg as opposed to cutting the main plant down to 3-4 feet (would this not have the same affect? Why not just leave the main plant to produce more energy through the leaves which would stimulate growth of the corm?
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![]() By pinning the main plant, you're just preventing it from maturing and producing new leaves. The current leaves will continue to collect energy for their normal life expectancy and the corm and roots will continue to grow. It's a simple and extremely effective way of producing more pups without having to use the resources of the main corm. This system prevents the problems associated with decapitation and false-decapitation. Quote:
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#6 (permalink) |
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![]() There were no leaves anymore. I said frost right? The pegged mama corm then did it's thing and shot the pups. I'll be digging out the 5 and 3 foot ones and pot them up. The remaining surface pups, as well as those still below, will be lifted together with the mama corm and go in a big pot. May get 6 to 10 more. Will probably plant it in a higher elevated location. The follow on will be on it's own to fruit in late summer.
Man ----- I lost 16 pups last winter --- not happening again! The clever pegging idea came from a member just south of me. ![]() |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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![]() Quote:
What's normal after a frost? ... and southeast is more accurate. Are you still getting positive growth on the smaller pups? If not, you probably want to change your plans.
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Will this method force it to pup if no pups are visibly present? I have done the decapitation method with positive results but I would like to try this hobbling method also. |
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#9 (permalink) |
Happy Growing Location: Beaumont Texas
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![]() I think Dan's use of this Method is spot on.. Other than a bent stem from a weather system or big corm weak mother for some reason.. and not wanting a sub-standard harvest.. I think Azomite or rooting hormone do the job.. :^)
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![]() how do you peg a plant? any videos or literature on this technique?
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#13 (permalink) | |
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#14 (permalink) |
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![]() Cut away or scoop out any rot. Like when a dentist drills out tooth decay -- stops when he gets to healthy material. If the majority of the corm mass is solid it will be fine when potted. I also sprinkle mycorrhizae powder on the roots. And add worm castings to the mix.
Last edited by bananimal : 03-18-2014 at 07:47 AM. |
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![]() And add a teaspoon of potassium sulfate.
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#16 (permalink) |
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![]() Good tip thanks. Still have some 0-0-50 potassium sulfate ultra fines from Diamond K left over. I usually use it to force bloom faster.
Last edited by bananimal : 03-18-2014 at 07:44 AM. |
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"Insert 2 small pins at 90 degree angles that pass through the center shaft at nearly the same level." I prefer to have the actual experience before giving advice, so I used my aeae to run the initial experiment. I regretted doing it immediately after inserting the first pin, the damage was slight but obvious and after about a half minute of profound thought the technique was replaced with a less evasive method. The original method is still very effective when implemented properly but clearly driving large stakes completely through the pseudostem would cause excessive damage. Some the leaves on my aeae are still good and the corm is still producing healthy roots 5 months after being pinned.
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#18 (permalink) | |
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#19 (permalink) |
Join Date: Oct 2007
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![]() I prefer to have the actual experience before giving advice, so I used my aeae to run the initial experiment. I regretted doing it immediately after inserting the first pin, the damage was slight but obvious and after about a half minute of profound thought the technique was replaced with a less evasive method. The original method is still very effective when implemented properly but clearly driving large stakes completely through the pseudostem would cause excessive damage.
what is the less evasive (invasive) method you are using? |
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#20 (permalink) | |
container grower Location: Southwest Ohio U.S.A.🇺🇸
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