sandy0225

I'll look and see how much iron is in it tomorrow. It's way out in the garage. I have them potted in promix brk with mycorrhize. I've been using regular greenhouse 20-20-20 on them about every third or fourth watering, used 2 T ironite when planting and about 2T per 3 gal pot about 2 weeks ago.

Hey I went and looked it's 4.5% iron. But it sure greens them up.

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Northern Tropics Greenhouse
1501 East Fuson Road
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www.northerntropics.com


specializing in bananas, heirloom tomatoes and water gardening plants~
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Richard

I agree about the mycorrhizae, but organic has little to do with it. You could use an animal source (e.g., fish emulsion), a vegetative source (e.g., cottonseed meal), or mineral source (e.g., urea + soluble potash) and obtain equally good results. pH and dosage are key to maximizing production.

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NANAMAN

Richard, I think it's obvious that the animal, vegetative, and mineral sources you listed are all commonly referred to as organic fertilizers. And those would be the types I am also speaking of.

The reason I mentioned organic fertilizers, is that standard chemical fertilizers (10-10-10, 20-20-20, acid blends, etc...) will reduce and at some point abolish, mycorrhiza and beneficial micro-organism populations in the soil. The effect is similar to pouring diluted bleach on mold, eventually all of it dies. Mycorrhiza producers recommend and some products are sold with the mycorrhiza bound to a Bio-sol type fertilizer, (organic), for this reason.

The point I'm making is that the fertilizer source (chemical / organic) has considerably more than " little to do with it " .

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the flying dutchman

Talking about European Species. Close to my home you will find Vaccinum Myrtillus everywhere. It grows at the edge of forests and inside the forest on half open spaces. The soil is pure sandground. It forms large dense clusters of plants not higher than a foot. They taste delicious.

Ron...

Richard

Actually the mineral sources are inorganic, the chemical fertilizers you speak of are made from them, and when an appropriate chemical fertilizer is applied properly then the mycorrhizae and other beneficial biology in the soil flourish.

Of course, if you take 15-30-15 and throw it at your plants in earnest, the phosphate will kill the soil biology in short order. In my view, the latter is an inappropriate fertilizer under many conditions and the delivery is also an irresponsible dosage. Using a chemical fertilizer that contains significant chlorine has the same results.

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stevelau1911

I'm not too worried about fertilizer right now since this area has very fertile soil to begin with and they are small plants which really need to just get their roots established in this ground. They have been inoculated with myccorhizal fungi from the time they were tiny seedlings so they should have an easier time adjusting to the ground. I'll avoid chemical fertilizers altogether since I want to make sure the soil stays healthy.

So far, Many of these seedlings have turned reddish likely due to the increase in sunlight and my goal for the rest of this season is to get each of these plants to grow a couple shoots so I'll be watering these plants and keeping them moist almost every day.

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I'm in zone 6 upstate NY, specialize in growing temperate cold hardy bamboos(mainly phyllostachys) and starting to get into bananas.

my picture website is http://www.flickr.com/photos/31489820@N02/

http://stevespeonygarden.blogspot.com/

Richard

Try the diagnostic tools on this page: Cornell Fruit

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NANAMAN

No Richard, mined mineral sources are absolutely " organic " as far as the term relates to organic fertilizer. Dolomite, Azomite, granite dust, green sand are just a few of the many choices a gardener can use. I never mentioned any previously.

So I guess you are responding to your own suggestion ( urea + soluble potash ? You are right about that, it's not organic.


Where do you get 15-30-15 from? In earnest huh? So in earnest would be an inappropriate amount?

You know the state of Ca. has recommendations of minimums , of many components, measured in ppm. that have proven to be fatal to soil fungi and micro-organisms. Phosphates are but one of about 10 that are commonly found! Most often in farms that have been fertilized chemically. It's never a problem in forests or pasture land, I wonder why? I would post a link to the chart if I could find it !

It seems as if you are still trying to say that using chem. fertilizers on soils that have mycorrhiza and other microbe populations is somehow not harmful to those populations. And you would be dead wrong! There are so many studies on this that it's irrefutable. Don't take my word for it! A Google search will give anyone interested in this subject, plenty of interesting data.

Richard, if you look back in this thread, my original post was about the efficiency of iron absorption with the use of mycorrhiza. Then I explained why I mentioned using organic fertilizer with mycorrhiza, I thought pretty effectively. So what is it with you? You seem to be very defensive as if talking about organic gardening practices somehow threatens you! No need to answer that one, that's just for you to think about. I really don't care !

The only reason I responded to your remarks in this thread is that most of it is wrong, and I would hate for someone here to get the wrong idea.

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Richard

Nope. It depends entirely on the chemical fertilizers and dosages in question. Anything more than a 1/4 teaspoon of Potassium chloride would be bad news for the microbes. Langbeinite (K2SO4·2MgSO4) in a tablespoon dosage would not.

Plants feed on inorganic compounds. From the chemical analysis point of view, one pound of reasonably dry composted horse manure is roughly equivalent to 1.5 tablespoons of a 28-8-18 chemical formula that includes micronutrients. Use what is most cost effective for you.

Anyway, looking at the Cornell Fruit Tool, it appears that Steve's blueberry plants have a magnesium deficiency -- unless they have one of those awful viruses. The latter is usually avoided by maintaining proper levels of zinc and copper in the soil.

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Worm_Farmer

I dont mean to steal this thread, but I have been growing blueberrys failry close to my peach tree. I really do need to give them a Soil Acidifier fert because they did so well before when I had some. I am getting worried that if I feed the blue berrys this stuff it might mess with the peach tree now. How far will 1/2 of Soil Acidifier cover? I only want it in a small area and dont want the peach to have a neg effect.
Thanks

Richard

Since you are in Florida, I'd guess you are growing southern highbush varieties of blueberries, like Sharps Blue? These blueberries and the peach tree would both appreciate a pH of 6.0. Get an inexpensive pH probe and check the soil before you apply.

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conejov

i planted these blue berries back in feb. and they have started going South. Dont know what might be the problem Im looking at the link Richard posted to see if I can find the answer.

Heres a pic::





ANy suggestions?

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Greenie

you should cut all that grass around the plant.its prone to fungus and other bad stuff if you don't.Blueberries thrive on good mulch and do not like wet feet.

Jack Daw

Looks like it needs more acidic soil.

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stevelau1911

That's how I've been trying to keep mine for now however they look like they're all done growing for the year since none of them are putting out any new shoots or leaves. I guess just like most deciduous trees, they put out a set amount of foliage for the year and then they stop growing.


I hope these guys can make it up past 2ft for next year's growth.

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I'm in zone 6 upstate NY, specialize in growing temperate cold hardy bamboos(mainly phyllostachys) and starting to get into bananas.

my picture website is http://www.flickr.com/photos/31489820@N02/

http://stevespeonygarden.blogspot.com/

Richard

Amen.

Looks like Magnesium deficiency. Magnesium is the central atom in chlorophyll and photosynthesis is impossible without it.

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stevelau1911

If its magnesium deficiency, I don't think it should be too much of a problem. Many of them turned reddish after getting transplanted into full sun, but lately they have been slowly turning green again so they must be getting used to their new spot.

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I'm in zone 6 upstate NY, specialize in growing temperate cold hardy bamboos(mainly phyllostachys) and starting to get into bananas.

my picture website is http://www.flickr.com/photos/31489820@N02/

http://stevespeonygarden.blogspot.com/

sbl

Blueberries do best at pH closer to 5. As has been said they do not like wet feet, but they do need a moist soil--Mulch is good--it helps keep soil moist and drains well. When bluberries are deficient in Magnesium, the new leaves appear reddish--apply epsom salt. Never fertilize blueberries with nitrate--it is toxic to them.

sunfish

Planted these two years ago as 4" plants. Compost,mulch and 15-10-30

Richard

Actually the pH of 5 is for the northern-eastern U.S., eastern Canada, and northern European blueberry (Vaccinium) species, but the southern Highbush and Rabbit Eye species prefer 5.8 to 6.0 -- at least according to studies by the U.C. Cooperative Extension in Davis and San Diego county.

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