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#1 (permalink) |
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![]() For starts, I'm totally new to grafting but have done a Lot of reading about it. Got inspired by Fernie's great stuff & pics of trees at Gilroy park in CA. Since this kind of grafting is done from Nov to March, figure this is the best time to start figuring stuff out. Still a Lot I dont know & would really appreciate any info I can get.
Read that grafting-cord is like flypaper & that Parafilm M is a lot better & easier. Is that what's used to tie the scion to the stock? Also, how many buds should the scion have? Also, read that tar paint should be put on the open end of the scion. Did searches but keep finding grafting wax & Doc Farwell's grafting seal. Will grafting seal work for that? Would Really appreciate any info I can get ![]() |
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#2 (permalink) |
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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![]() I've never grafted before, but I was planning on grafting my seedling mango later on. I don't know if you have a mango tree, but I think this is a great video to check out on Veneer Grafting.
Here's another instructional video, but I'm not sure if it's veneer grafting. |
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![]() Thanx for the videos, Rich
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![]() I did a lot of grafting but if you want I can teach you a much easier grafting method and I think more take percentage.
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![]() Thanx Benny
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#6 (permalink) | |
I think with my banana ;)
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![]() Quote:
However if you want to start grafting, be sure to memorize one thing: 1 technique will never get you far. Actually as a part of pomology people here are taught around 24 different basic grafting and cutting propagation techniques (tropical countries usually use from 100 to 150 different propagation techniques, obvious reasons...). They vary with trees (soft bark, strong bark --- smooth or not smooth bark..), very important is also rootstock:graft width ratio. Usually that determines, which technique would be the best to use or at least narrow possible techniques to only few. I found out (and you coming from similar zone will maybe experience it too), that ideal time for grafting is early May to early June, graft usually start growing in 96 and more %. Grafting in September and later, alternatively in March is practically useless. THere are not suitable conditions or humidity then. You will also find out, that some plants and trees just like one techniques more than another. Good luck, Eric.
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![]() Thanx Jack
![]() ![]() ![]() Been practicing making long, smooth cuts with my knife, for now. Thanx for the extra info ![]() |
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#8 (permalink) | |
I think with my banana ;)
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![]() Also I found out that not a knife, but very sharp razor is the best cutting/shaping/slicing tool, especially good for grafting, as the graft should be smooth in the place of joining.
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Thnx to Marcel, Ante, Dr. Chiranjit Parmar and Francesco for the plants I've received. ![]() Zeitgeist - Corporatocracy 101 (~2hrs) Zeitgeist - Moving Forward (~2.5hrs) |
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![]() I've done alot of grafting , mostly on tropical plants. Mango, Citrus, Sapadilla, some chestnet and Pecan a long time ago. Tropicals are best done during time of active growth, while temperate plants best before dormancy breaks. Thses are not absolute rules, so experiment! I've had best results with Mangos, Sapadillas and citrus. I've used a variety of wrapping media, cut up visqueen works well. I hope this helps. One bud on the scion works well.
![]() Last edited by Caloosamusa : 09-13-2009 at 06:07 PM. Reason: add |
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